Czech Republic - Prague Pt. 1

After two days and one night in Amsterdam, Mike and I headed off to the Czech Republic to see the homeland. We bookended our trip to CZ with stays in Prague and in between we traveled to the southeast of the country to visit family in the Moravian towns of Zlin and Bzenec.

We arrived in Prague on a Monday night after a short flight from AMST and took a cab into Old Town where our hotel, Hotel Rott was located. After dumping our gear in the hotel and having a chat with the very cool night manager, Jiri, about where to go and what to do, we set out. First off, let me just say that I knew Prague was a beautiful city, but it blew away my expectations. Amazing.

We took a stroll through the Old Town Square and took everything in just long enough to be pegged as tourists. Since it was January and nearly 10pm on a Monday night, the square was deserted but for a few lone sentinels oddly spaced throughout the giant square. We didn't get more than ten feet before these guys began to zero in on us. They were real entrepreneurs and very diversified in the wares they were selling ...everything from pot to prostitutes to where the good sports bars are (no joke re: sports bars...."yes, we're just in from American and are just DYING to grab some wings, Bud Lights and watch sports in some ridiculous imitation of an already bad American idea). After shooing these guys off one by one, we got to look around and see some amazing works of architecture, most notably, the Prague Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Hall Tower and the Tyn Church. More on the Clock later. 

Old Town Hall Tower

Prague Astronomical Clock

Old Town Hall Tower/Prague Astronomical Clock in foreground
and Tyn Church in the back center. 

We hustled to a few underground "cave" bars that I'd done some online recon on before the trip. First, we headed down to Double Trouble Bar & Club which I was very excited to see. The place is one of the coolest bars I've ever been in, but unfortunately we were the only people in it. That, and the fact that it had a terribly cheesy logo and signage that kinda took away from the exposed brick and polished timber of the bar and tables. 

Mike in Double Trouble Bar looking up at Satan 

Another underground bar -- the name escapes me for some reason.

We left there and headed out in search of more fun and walked down towards Wenceslas Square which was equally as deserted. After getting approached by a few more "entrepreneurs" we headed to an underground bar right around the corner from our hotel in a place called Alternatiff Area where we ran into Jiri from the hotel having a couple beers while on "break." Had a great time with him and then made our way back to the hotel for additional hijinks which may or may not have included air banding in our hotel room at 2am to the elevator music that was playing thru the TV. Mike was on bass and piano and I handled the electric xylophone. A concert for the ages.

The next day we logged some serious foot-miles and saw much of the city in both Lesser Town and Old Town. We woke up and headed east across the Vlatava River via the Manesuv Most bridge and then made our way up to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. Mindblowing. 

The Castle and Cathedral on the hill.

To our right and left wear massive and very impressive stained glass works.

After checking out the inside of the cathedral, we paid 150 Czech Crowns (6 euros) to climb the South Tower of St. Vitus. From here, we got some great shots of the city.

Nice cock.

After the Tower, we walked through Lesser Town and over the famous Charles Bridge and headed back into Old Town and then onto Wenceslas Square. 

On Charles Bridge. 

Also from Charles Bridge. 

Good King (St.) Wenceslas in front of the National Museum.

One Czech king-saint and two Czech king-clowns in front of Natl Mus.

We regrouped for an hour of so back at the hotel and then headed out for some authentic Czech eats at U Vejvodu. It was all we could hope for, and for our Omaha friends, it convinced us that the food at Bohemian Cafe is very, very legit. Good Driving Omaha! 

Mike preparing to destroy.

Happy Fat Matty.

Once we were physically able to move after finishing dinner we went around the corner to an Absinthe Bar and had ourselves a real absinthe cocktail. Not bad -- Cris would have loved. It was a very cool place with a mellow coffee shop feel and we took some time to relax go over the days events and talk about the rest of the week ahead. 

We finished off the night at the Chapeau Rouge Bar & Club where we had a couple more pilsners (what's two more after a dozen, anyway?) and chilled. It was a pretty cool bar, but we preferred the more quite, basement bars. 

Look boss, dee plane!

I love the smell of pilsner in the morning.

The next morning, Wednesday, we walked to the Florenc Metro stop and hopped on our bus to Zlin four hours away to stay with relatives Jirka and Mirka. More on that in upcoming post...

Prague you were so very good to us. Can't wait to go back. Maybe we'll wait until it's not below zero, though. 

Matt & Mike's EuroTour 2011 - AMSTERDAM and the birth of a new Otepka

From Sunday - Sunday, Jan 16-23, I traveled to Amsterdam and then the Czech Republic with my youngest bro Mike. It was an incredible experience.

To start, we rallied up at Schipol Airport in AMST on Sunday at the "Airport Meeting Point" (genius idea, see below).

After we hooked up in the airport, we took the train into the city and caught up on each other's trips (Mike's coming from St. Louis was considerably longer than my hour-long flight from Lux). The trip nearly got off to a bad start when an extremely cunty old woman on the train told us "thank you for letting all of us in on your private conversation" and then proceeded to repeat that sentence another six times. Apparently, she only whispers to her friends when on public transportation in AMST. When we got off the train, one of the only other two guys in same passenger car with us looked at me, gave a wink and a grin and shrugged as if to say "sorry for the old wench." That made me feel better. I guess there are loud Americans and bitchy old women everywhere.

Our hotel was on the opposite end of the city from where the train dropped us off and Amsterdam Centraal Station, but was nice walk and good way to see a bit of the city. Once we got to our hotel we unpacked and did exactly what you'd expect -- we went for a jog. 

Hotel -- the NH Amsterdam Centre

So I know the idea of a jog sounds a bit off for me, but it was actually a pretty good strategy -- better to get a lay of the land before it's too late and you're a few too many coffee's into the evening. Plus, Mike had been on a plane for about 10 hours so a good stretch of the legs would be good for him. 


We ran all thru town and it was a good recon exercise as we planned how we would attack the city. We ran thru parks, found the Red Light Dist, the Van Gogh Museum, Heineken Museum, Amnesia coffee house (thanks for the rec Bill T.), etc, etc, etc. 


We got back to the hotel famished and decided to walk to a nearby pub and grab an early bit to eat. Since we went straight from our jog, I didn't have my camera with me. Food was really good -- we split a burger and warmed up with a couple of traditional homemade hearty soups that were phenom. It also marked the cracking of our first, but not last Amstels and Heinekens. 


Headed back to hotel, cleaned up and then went out to Amnesia for some herbal tea and to chill out. Amnesia is a very mellow place not in the RL District and was definitely good to us. Super nice staff, pretty good tunes (lots of Jackson 5) and nice atmosphere.

I highly recommend this place.

After Amnesia we wandered around town and eventually got our bearings enough to roll through the Red Light District for the obligatory nighttime stroll. It was eye opening. Women for sale in windows. Very, very strange (and not as great as you'd think, though better than the afternoon merchandise that was on display during our jog earlier in the day). 

After laughing our way through the RLD we stumbled to the Temple Bar and had a few beers celebratory shots after learning that our brother Jim and his wife Meg had just graced the world with another Otepka -- Jane Elizabeth Otepka was born on Sun, Jan 16 in Milwaukee, WI. 

J.E.O.!!! Welcome, young lady!

Left Temple Bar to wander again and what do you know, we found ourself back at Amnesia where we sat down to some old school Coca-Colas in the mini glass bottles and played chess for an hour or so and closed the place down. 

Woke up the next day and had a big breakfast and promptly headed out to the Van Gogh Museum. Spent an hour or two there and saw some great stuff. They also had some Monet on exhibit which was an added treat Then headed back to the hotel to pick up our bags and make the trek up to Centraal Station via tram. 

Next time, we may even go inside. 

We got up to the station early so we headed to a nearby bar to have a couple of pops before flying out to Prague to begin the "real" part of our trip. Since we were in Amsterdam, we walked into an Irish bar. I believe it was called Blarney Stone. 

Mike in the Bullshit Corner per the small plaque on the wall behind him.

It was right across the street from a hilarious looking coffee shop called Double Reggae which had a front window adorned by Jim Morrison and great message to potential shoppers (see caption if you can't read it here)...

"UNDER 18 NO ENTRE"
("and don't fuck around")

After a few beers we jumped on the train, headed to the airport and as usual got there 2 hours early so we sat down in the airport bar called Rembrant's and ate liverworst and what can only be described as deep fried gravy balls (heavenly) and couple of pitchers of Amstel. 

Gravy + Breading + Deep Fryer = Destruction

Next up, Prague then Zlin and then Bzenec and then Prague again... Got off to a great start. 

Family in Lux

Sara's parents, Gaga and Sir, came in to visit for a few weeks so of course we had to put the kitchen to good use. We did some old reliables like lamb legs and pastas and whole chickens, etc. Paired a lot of stuff with some good Jaime Oliver salads -- I'm becoming a fan of his side dishes and salads, but not yet down with his entrees, though to be fair, i've only done one or two.

Here are a couple of shots...

Dinner with Roo and Sir and Gaga

Chicory salad, stuffing, roasted chicken and gratin potatoes.

Stuffed mushrooms, roasted fennel bulbs, pasta with leeks, and green salad. 

Gaga was sick for the first week of the trip (bronchitis and double ear infection) which caused her to cancel  a quick trip to Hamburg to see Emi, Michael and Lexi, but she recovered nicely and did more than her share of Rudy Duty and cooking/cleaning when I was out of town for a week*. She and Sir took Roo all over town and kept him very busy. Lots of stories and games and picture drawing and block-stacking, etc.

Oh and we made a lot of progress on the potty training front with Sir and Gaga. Here's an action shot...

"I did it!!!!!"

*from Jan 16-23, I spent a week traveling around the Czech Republic with my brother Mike. Sir and Gaga went to bat for the O Family and took very good care of Boo and Roo while Mike and I drank and ate tremendous amounts. Thank you again, fam.

2011: Living the Good Life in Lux

(Sara here -- this post starts boring but then gets exciting . .. wait for it)


I made the best meal of my life (really the only good meal I've ever made -- but it was good). And it was easy (prerequisite). Coconut-Curry Lentil Stew Served over Quinoa (I have had a lot of luck with www.allrecipies.com)

The title says it all. Healthy (actually vegan), nothing too exotic -- you should have coconut butter and coconut milk in your cupboards -- and a lot of curry!

A typical breakfast. Rudy eating cornflakes, yogurt, fruit (not shown: Sara eating spoonfuls of almond butter and Matty eating what Rudy doesn't eat, pondering his meat intake for the day)

So, now a bit on our New Years fun . . .We went to the Wiloughby's house (I work for Gordon) and had a true European meal of 5 courses: pate, Carbonade of beef (British meat stew with mustard spread toast points served over rice), salad, dessert, cheese. Unfortunately I don't have photos, but picture a night of chatting and relaxing while Rudy was entertained by 5-year old Magus, dishes and drinks keeping coming, all of a sudden it's 11:30 and I'm eating unpasteurized soft cheese and sipping wine .. . which normally wouldn't be a problem, but (and now we get to the exciting part) I'm pregnant! Thought our burgeoning blog community should know -- due July 9th -- the Otepkas are thrilled.

The night ended with a lot of fireworks which thrilled Rudy. When we got home, our neighbor stumbled over to drag Matty to a New Years Montee de la Petrusse progressive. Matty made friends who invited us to their bonfire the next night. This is a couple blocks from our house, on the Alzette river, by where the Grand Duke has a special little Lux vineyard. Let's see if I can end with that pic .. . .